My in-flight entertainment on my way over to America consisted of Elton John’s Greatest Hits 1970-2002. Whilst this was very refreshing to hear it was also sad to reflect that my passing comment at the end of my report last year was that I hoped to spend more time hanging out with Austin regular Gus Dudgeon this year. Regrettably this was not to be the case as he and his wife were killed in a car crash in July. I guess this trip was for him and those friends of mine who were unable to come over due to concerns about a pending war. I had early on decided that this year was going to be a holiday and not a work trip.

Monday 10th March 2003.

After a very needed break with my cousins in San Diego, I landed in Austin, Texas on Monday afternoon. The Continental Club was not open so my first Shiner Bock was consumed at Guero’s on South Congress. It wasn’t long before my Austin buddies Tom Ovansand Lou Ann Bardash joined me. After listening to his excellent new album 'Tombstone Boys, Graveyard Girls' (his 9th and in my overtly humble opinion his best to date) we dined at Polvo’s: Chicken Fajitas, Frozen Margaritas (Ritas) and the service of the beautiful Mimi… Some things are constant with my trips to Austin. Good food, drink and company are always in abundance.

Tom Ovans and Lou Ann Bardash.

It was good to get here earlier this year and to soak up Austin and all it has to offer outside of SXSW before all my commadres were to join me. It was hot and it was worthwhile chilling out in the heat before the running around started.

Tuesday 11th March 2003.

Jack Ingram was the first live act I saw. Waterloo Records on Tuesday afternoon was the venue. He played tracks from a new EP whilst I was spent a small fortune on my CD ‘wish list’. Whatever people say CDs are always cheaper here and the chances of finding old titles are higher. I’ve always liked Jack’s music and style (a little too blue collar at times – but that’s OK) and feel that he’s had some bad luck in the past. What with Rising Tide going under the current before a release of a new record and a recent bust up with Sony… It was in Waterloo Records I bumped into fellow SpydaRadio DJ Karen Miller and Edinburgh promoter David Mouat.

Maybe it’s familiarity breeding contentment but I’m very happy returning to old haunts and chatting away with the locals about the state of play and Opal Divine’s Freehouse has always provided a venue for this. They like my English accent there and sell a variety of English bitters to make me feel at home. I recall having a beer there with Mike Chapman on the day the venue opened exactly three years ago. We may even have been the first! On more than one occasion I was postulating as to what kind of music Austinites Stevie Ray Vaughan and Janis Joplin would be making today had they both stayed alive. I think it was the beer talking personally.

BP and Harry 'Felix' Farmer.

It wasn’t until 8 o’clock I met with my room mate this year, Harry ‘Felix’ Farmer. It was his first year last year and with his new job at CODA he was a man on a mission. He knew the lay of the land within which to operate and he did it well. We met outside Stubb’s BBQ to attend The Swollen Circus which in previous years had always been held at The Hole In The Wall up near the University of Texas. Sadly it closed last year. Steve Wynn & The Miracle 3 was certainly the highlight of the night playing tracks from one of my favourite albums of the year so far ‘Static Transmission’. Sure enough a lot of my UK buddies were there too: Barry ‘Borderline’ Everitt, Nick ‘Bucketfull of Brains’ West, Paddy Forwood, Lee Conlon, as well as SXSW regular Edgar Heckmann (from Steve Wynn’s label Blue Rose) and Austin dweller and pal Bonnie Spanogle. "We have arrived!" I thought. Most of these guys flew in today and were dead on their feet – but I was feeling groovy.

Wednesday 12th March 2003.

Wednesday was the official start of the meat market that is SXSW – now in its 16th year. I bought myself a wristband because I didn’t have the luxury of acquiring a laminate. This gave me more excuse to treat this like a holiday (not that I am looking for excuses to have a good time in Austin). You are simply spoilt for choice for great music and it is impossible NOT to have a great time. It’s like my first days at university. Your social life is handed to you on a plate. Austin during SXSW (and presumable outside of it too) it’s like a smorgasbord of brilliant music. If you don’t like music you aren’t welcome here! With my $115 wristband - I wanted to get my money’s worth!

I learnt very quickly that you can’t do this on an empty stomach (or even a near empty stomach). Star Seeds Café up from our hotel proved to be an excellent new venue for breakfasts. Well worth the long walk (the first of many). Also a great chance to plot the day ahead with Farmer!

Beaver Nelson was rather fantastic (as always) in the afternoon at Opal Divine’s. He really is very good live with Scrappy Jud Newcomb on guitar playing some good songs noticeably ‘Company of Kings’ from ‘The Last Hurrah!’ and ‘Clean It Up’ from last years’ ‘Legends of the Super Heroes’. His voice is quite rough - not as sharp as Richard Butlers (Psychedelic Furs and Love Spit Love) but certainly has hints of Dylan there. The Loose Diamonds were on afterwards and they were pretty good too. Always fun to bump into ‘Mad Country’ Joe and ‘Rock’n’Roll Barber' Terry (first of a zillion occasions) with their mates Dave and Rick and also Keith and Mickey from Farnham. James Windsor from Nottingham was also here and this year he brought a whole entourage of music fans from his ‘Cosmic American’ night at The Maze - including Pete, Pete, David, David and Ian. Good lads. I bumped into James et al about 50 times during the preceding days. We obviously have the same impeccable taste in music!

Joe, BP, Rick and Terry: The Mob.

Next was a refreshing session of margaritas at The Driskill Hotel where recently engaged Rob Challice and Sarah Wells were staying. To complete the party was Barry and Harry.

Next up, Canada’s finest Corb Lund Band. I booked some shows for these guys towards the end of last year and think that they are so authentic in their sound and style. It’s unique and infectious. Corb is a super nice guy too, so it was good to kick start the evening this way at BD Riley’s. I didn’t move far from here when I bumped into Jesse Sykes, Phil Wandscher and their French label Fargo - Michel and Clement. The memories and reflections of these 5 mad days gain more clarity in the days and weeks that follow and also when people ask you about your experiences in Austin, new things rise to the surface. I do get very busy and lazy in Austin sometimes at the same time. Laughing and drinking with these guys put me in a very soporific mood and it took some effort to drag me down to La Zona Rosa where I saw a very mediocre and lackluster Reckless Kelly. I had high expectations of these guys. Bob Harris has always championed this band and had he been here in the US I’m sure he’d be here with me. I did bump into fellow East Anglians Dave and Sue Williams with their daughters Nicola and Paula though, who seemed to be enjoying the band. I was fairly drunk by this stage and the next venue was bed.

Thursday 13th March 2003.

Thursday morning kicked off with a long walk to the Austin Motel down South Congress and back again. This is a well-burnt route. I lost count as to how may times I have completed this. I had the first of a very few meetings down there and had promised to do a piece live on Mean Country about what I had seen and what I had planned to see. So – true to my word – Neil ‘Nobber’ O’Brien took my call on air (1.30pm my time, 7.30pm UK time). Neil had just played Grand Drive and had cued up Kathleen Edwards. We gassed about how great this place is, knowing full well that Neil would’ve loved to have been here with me. I really hope that we can do some live broadcasting for Mean Country out here next year. That would just be the best thing. We would be in our true element.

I spent a very brief time at this years’ New West Party for no other reason that I had to be somewhere at 3pm. I didn’t have any idea of who was playing this year. I think the guys at New West were trying to keep it a closely guarded secret. This party is always over subscribed and it pays to get here early. I did get to see the tail end of Vic Chesnutt’s show (who has finally signed a deal with the label) and also saw the excellent Tim Easton play with his band. I’ve been playing his new record ‘Break Your Mother’s Heart’ a lot on my radio shows on Mean Country and SpydaRadio and it was good to catch it live. I, however, missed the chance to see – wait for it - John Hiatt & The Goners. John’s next record is being released in the US on New West. You can’t catch everything in Austin…. I was kind of kicking myself thinking "I wish my meeting was at 4pm" as I walked down to The Four Seasons hotel to have my annual chin wag with fellow agent Val Denn. Little did I know that Tom Russell and his US publicist and Larry and Bruce from his label (HighTone Records) would also be there. This is Austin after all and Val provides a very informal and friendly environment to talk shop.

I decided against returning to the New West party or against all other options I had lined up for myself to take a trip to South Austin (‘the other side’) to see Tom Ovans playing at this funky new venue called Ruta Maya Headquarters - outside under the water tower. This was strictly a NotSXSW show! It had been a hot and sunny day and I had done a lot of walking so I was glad to sit back and drink some cold beers in the early evening sun and listen to Tom’s mesmeric music. It was especially refreshing, though, when he started to play a series of cover songs: ‘The Boxer’, ‘He Was A Friend of Mine’. There is so much good original live music performed at this festival. It’s good to hear some old friends. Tom’s own songs are some of them. Ross Fortune from Time Out was also there and we listened to the new Lucinda Williams’ album ‘World Without Tears’ as he kindly drove me to my next port of call: Jesse Sykes & The Sweet Hereafter @ Mother Egans. On first listen I think I’m going to like this album a lot more than ‘Essence’ which is good news as I agree with a lot of people in thinking that she is America’s best songwriter. ‘Car Wheels On A Gravel Road’ made my year in 1998. ‘Essence’ was such a disappointment.

Jesse Sykes was spectacular with her band The Sweet Hereafter and was well received by the modest audience. It must be painfully hard playing so early into an evening.

Jesse Sykes and BP. A happy man!

Next stop was Antone’s to see the eagerly awaited Kathleen Edwards. She was certainly the buzz name this year and she delivered a blistering set with her band from Canada (including Colin Cripps and Joel Anderson). She can cut it and we’ll touch more on her later.

My friend Florence suggested us catching the end of Buddy Miller’s set at Stubb’s BBQ and we got there literally during the last song. It did, however, mean that I could spend the rest of the night not far from my hotel seeing Lee Ann Womack who I’d never seen before. I don’t know why. I regret it now if she ever has played live in the UK before. Whoah! She was gooood although it was more a free for all for whomever she knew to jump onstage to sing their own songs. This included Jim Lauderdale (everywhere as always), Ray Benson (from Asleep At The Wheel) and new Vanguard signing Mindy Smith. I look forward to hearing more from Mindy.

Friday 14th March 2003.

Friday started late (after over sleeping) and slowly with a pleasant and small breakfast/lunch with mate Will McCarthy at Avenue Café. It is always good taking stock with him. I was trying very hard to not check my e-mails as they were work and I was on holiday. I did succumb and was depressed at how many e-mails were waiting for me to read. I decided that I’d wait until I got back to Suffolk to take any serious notice of them, as I was certainly not in the mood!

Friday afternoon is always party time and Yard Dog and The Continental Club are regular fixtures on my SXSW (or "South By" as I had rather begrudgingly learnt to abbreviate it to!) schedule. Bloodshot Records always know how to do things: a great choice of beer (Dogfish Head Craft Brewed Ales) and of course music. Bloodshot are one of my favourite American indie labels. I have supported them since I first was aware of them in early 1998 when they launched in the UK in a packed pub in Brixton. Rex Hobart and The Misery Boys provided some pretty damn fine Honky Tonk and The Legendary Shack Shakers.... Well! Quite a sight (!) and quite a noise. Positively the most surprising act so far and when the lead singer took his shirt off after the first song I knew it was going to get punkier. I predict good things of this reggae punk blues band in the UK.

With Graham 'Shipcote' Anderson. My Newcastle buddy.

I spent such a short period of time at the Bug Music party this year; but I did meet Laura Veirs and her band The Troubled Souls, with whom I am going to doing some booking for.

I really do want us at Mean Country to be here next year. I felt I was very much the sole UK DJ here this year along with Karen Miller. I know Nick Stewart (AKA Captain America) was here but I didn’t bump into him at all. I know that Radio 2 were due to be here but decided it might not be such a good idea with a war with Iraq looming. Next year Mean Country will be here. I’m pretty sure of that. To that end I looked at a studio a good taxi ride away that we could do something in. Watch this spot.

My good friends Joe and Terry tipped me off about a band called Patty Hurst Shifter. Like James Windsor, I trust these guys’ judgement so was prompt to get to The Ginger Man pub (an official SXSW venue last year but not this year: how does that work?). I got there early and catch a really refreshing world music groovy band called Casamar. This is what I love about SXSW. Stumbling across music you wouldn’t normally think to see. With 1,000 official bands playing 50 venues over 5 days and with endless unofficial bands (mainly Austin bands because they can’t even get into their own festival: what’s all that about?) playing these unofficial (NotSXSW) venues, the chance to see something you don’t know about is pretty damn high! The Pear Cider was really nice and the Turkey Burger with apple and cranberry chutney sauce was rather fruity but PHS didn’t do it for me. A little MOR for me. "Sounds like Neil Young" was the common comment. I wouldn’t be so generous. In fact throughout this whole trip I was quite sparing with my superlatives. You’ll see my top gigs at the end of the report. Everyone has different opinions on what they think is good and what isn’t (thank God). PHS was not my bag.

The posse at The Gingerman. 'Mad Country' Joe, BP, James 'Nottingham' Windsor, Susan from Florida, Terry The Rock'n'Roll Barber, and a lovely lady whose name I never learnt. How rude of me not to ask!

Laura Veirs and her band Tucker, Karl and Steve (AKA The Troubled Souls) entertained me at Bella Union’s night at Friends on the famous Sixth Street (every door opened into a live music venue this week). She did, however, experience some problems with the sound in this room, which was unfortunate. She did play again the following day inside the Conference Centre but because I only had a wristband, I couldn’t see it. I understand she was stunning there. She’ll be over in the UK in the next two weeks or so to promote her fabulous new album ‘Troubled By The Fire’. So cool to see it live here first, as with a lot of gigs during SXSW week.

Laura Veirs and The Troubled Souls and someones head at Friends on 6th Street.

It was quite literally a hop skip and jump to get to see Tom Russell up at the University. I’ve been to some decent gigs up in this theatre in the past – most noticeably Gillian Welch and Dave Rawlings, Kelly Willis and Bruce Robison – that I knew I was up for a relaxing time in the big comfortable theatre seats. Tom’s new album ‘Modern Art’ is just so great but he didn’t play too many songs from it and chose to play some of his better known songs ‘Angel of Lyon’ and ‘Out In California’ (written by Dave Alvin). He was joined onstage by his long term guitarist Andrew Hardin who is just superb. There are no other real ways of describing it really! He was joined onstage for one song by Eliza Gilkyson and for a couple by Elana from The Hot Club of Cowtown on fiddle.

The Broken Spoke is always so far out that it is not always easy to include it in an evening but I know that whenever I get there it’s worth it. Oh yes! Bruce and Larry from HighTone plus Will McCarthy, Hakan from Playground Music (Sweden) and Traci Thomas (Tom Russell’s US publicist) all squeezed into a car to check out Ben Atkins and the very very good Thad Cockrell. Thanks to Joe Woolley (AKA ‘Mad Country Joe’) I got introduced to the owner of the venue James White – who promptly gave me a tour of his country music museum: photos of him with Bob Wills, Ernest Tubb, Willie Nelson and George Jones! This guy is the real deal.

With James White.

Thad Cockrell attracted some good folks and before I knew it I was slamming tequilas with Chip Taylor and John Platania who were also there. It started to get messy and I called it a day at 3 o’clock in the morning. This was my best night by far. After a quick dance with Michel from Fargo Records I got a lift home – which is just as well – ‘cos it would’ve been a helluva walk!

With John Platania and Chip Taylor.

Saturday 15th March 2003.

I felt surprisingly good the next day and after walking for what felt like 10 miles, Farmer and I eventually decided to go to the Austin Motel for breakfast. A decision popular by fellow Brits: Cooking Vinyl’s Martin and Ron and Simon from Bella Union.

Chip, Carrie and John charmed us all at an outside stage around midday at the back of Threadgill’s World HQ as part of 3rd Coast Music’s NotSXSW party. Chip and Carrie were quite literally everywhere this year. You saw their faces on almost every street and they played everywhere too. I heard that someone had seen them live as they cleared through customs at Austin Airport! Threadgill’s provided shade and a well-needed hair of the dog.

Kathleen Edwards was at Waterloo Records at 3 o’clock and I was not going to miss it – especially after seeing her on Thursday night at Antone’s. Norah Jones had a similar buzz last year and I seem to recall a similar length queue to get into the record shop (!!!) to see her last year as there was so see Kathleen this year. Whether or not Kathleen is going to go on and sell millions of records and win 5 Grammies in just one year is yet to be seen. The record shop were selling Kathleen’s record at a similar price of $8.99 – so who knows? They were almost giving ‘Failer’ away! This performance as Waterloo Records was the performance of the week. She looked so confident, comfortable and relaxed on stage. Happy with her band and so so happy to be there. She was joking away – taking the piss out of her manager quite blatantly. How many artists can do that and get away with it? It was just so brilliant to be there. I was joined by Farmer as well as Mike and Pearse from Buckingham who kindly drove me back to Yard Dog where I roasted myself in the hot Austin sun drinking more free beer (Shiner this time) listening to some of Yep Roc’s turns at their annual party. Big Sandy and Wayne Hancock were the stand out acts.

Free beer, free BBQ, free music. It must be SXSW!

Sarah Wells announced her engagement to Rob Challice a month or two ago and also invited her British friends to join her for Cocktails at The Driskill to help celebrate her birthday. Of course! If ever I had my birthday in a place like Austin and fell on a festival like SXSW I’d take time out from the mayhem to be with friends. The party moved over to Eddie V's (a very posh restaurant on Fifth Street). It was there that I ate my favourite meal of the week. Sea Bass in a thai cocunut sauce with garlic vegetables. I felt sorry for anyone that I was going to be standing close to later this evening. I did relax here and put live music on the back burner as I enjoyed the food, the wine and the company.

A quick stop to catch a little of Dan Bern and his band at Aussies followed by a brief trip back to La Zona Rosa with ‘Cooking Vinyl’ to see Clem Snide took most of the next hour up.

I really did need to end this trip on a high note. I needed some musical stimulation and to be in one place for more than 1 hour.

SXSW makes venues from the most unlikely spaces and venues. Cedar Street Courtyard is probably a very nice shady place to read the paper during a hot sunny day and a nice place to dine with your partner during an evening. During this SXSW a stage was put up at the back and the area was turned into an outside gig. This was the New West showcase evening. I wanted to get there early as I knew with only my wristband to get into places it would be hard to get in. I therefore had to watch the Drive By Truckers from the street and I doubted if I was ever going to make it in. I would’ve been well annoyed but I finally got the nod to walk down the stairs into the courtyard.

Tired eyes. James 'Nottingham' Windsor, BP, Florence 'TrainWreck' Arpin, Will 'Will' McCarthy.

The best of us were there - heh - to see Slobberbone. The best way to finish SXSW with Joe, Terry, James as well as with Bas Flesseman and Robbie Klanderman from Holland. Slobberbone were brilliant and I was losing my voice. I was truly satisfied and at 2am the next venue was the Marriott Hotel.

Sunday 16th March.

This year I decided to fly back on the Sunday so that I could have good nights’ sleep before my radio show at Mean Country on Tuesday night.

I did manage to squeeze in a last minute breakfast with SXSW 2001 and SXSW 2002 cohort Alex de Cartier and Farmer before flying back to the UK.

At Austin Airport I bumped into Richard Wootton. It’s funny how you can spend a whole week in a place like Austin and not see people you expect to see quite frequently. I would like to add Lee Conlon, Sara Qazi, Bonnie Spanogle, Scott Schaefer, Richard Whymark, Brandon Kessler, Yvonne Matsell, Shilah Morrow, Mike Gormley and of course Beatle Bob to this comment. Then – as you leave – you bump into Mr Wootton, who very quickly whisked us off to the Debenture Lounge at the airport for a few beers and a chance to reflect on the weeks’ events. Through the glass dividers we could see Tony Blair making a speech at the Azores Conference and we knew that war with Iraq was imminent. I wanted to be back home and after flying back via Dallas before I knew it I was at Gatwick Airport.

I couldn’t believe how many British folk were there at SXSW this year. It was great to spend time with Harry (thank you for letting me share your room), Will, Rob and Sarah, Barry, Joe and Terry, Nick, Ross, Paddy, Graham, Martin and Rob, Simon and Vicki and Peter, James and the Nottingham gang, Mike and Pearse, Keith and Mickey, Karen and David, Dave ‘Lakenheath!’ and Mr Whittle. I’m sorry if I have left any names out. There was also a nice little French contingency with Florence, Michel, Clement and Patricia. Even a Dutch contingency with Bas and Robbie and the guys from Blue Highways and Louis from Music In My Head festival. Big thanks to the American contingency Tom and Lou Ann (of course), Tom, Val, Larry and Bruce, Traci, Jesse and Phil and their band, Laura and her band, Chip and John, the Florida girls, Glenn from Yep Roc, Randy from Harp Magazine, Nan and Scott from Bloodshot. Thanks to Mimi for some dodgy Frozen margaritas. My friend Richard Buckner now lives in Austin. He was on tour in Australia this week and he strongly recommended I try out Avocado Maragitas. I never did but I think I’d like to give Mimi a second chance at Polvos!!!

Musically the highlights were Kathleen Edwards (the best), Jesse Sykes and The Sweet Hereafter, The Legendary Shack Shakers, Slobberbone, Tom Russell and Thad Cockrell.

I missed the chance to see Sonny Landreth, John Hiatt & The Goners (doh!), Supergrass, Anne McCue, Calexico, Stars, The Hot Club of Cow Town, Sarah Lee Guthrie, John Doe, Asylum Street Spankers and Toni Price. There is just too much going on. At any one moment in time there might be about 5 bands I’d want to see live. If any of them are any good – they’ll make it over to the UK and instead of seeing just 45 minutes of their music – I’d be able to see a whole two hours.

My dancing partner at The Broken Spoke. Check my moves out.

Roll on SXSW 2004.

Bob Paterson