I love Austin - the music capital of the world.

The Austin Motel

I was particularly looking forward to this SXSW as I had no idea who was playing and I knew that a pile of really good people from Britain were going to be with me whilst carving a trail of destruction wherever the gravy train took us.

TUESDAY

It was very hot as we landed and not one cloud in the sky. This is what I had hoped after two relatively bad years.

Unfortunately the queue outside The Continental Club was too long and my customary first glass of Shiner Bock took place with my travel companion Harry Farmer at the well known Güera's just up the road on South Congress. Soon we were joined by my travel companion of SXSW 2000 Mike Chapman, and the hellraisers that are Mad Country Joe, Terry 'Rock'n'Roll Barber', Dave, Rich, Mike and Bucketfull of Brains' Nick West. When my good Austin friends Tom Ovans and Lou Ann Bardash arrived it all made perfect sense and we soon moved onto the margaritas at the fabulously priced Polvos. A must for any Austin visitor.

It being Tuesday night the only live music that was being advertised was at the Hole in the Wall. I chose to spend an evening catching up with Tom and Lou Ann. We hope that Tom will return to the UK by the end of the year. I've been a fan of his music since the early 90's and Lou Ann's oil paintings of women on well grained wood has now developed to dressing screens (http://www.DressingScreens.com). True art. I am glad I know them and have them firmly in my life.

WEDNESDAY

Harry was a SXSW Virgin - so I made it my business to show him some of my favourite places. With the help of Audience Magazine - in return for us scattering around copies of their international live music magazine - we both got laminates. Two years ago I would've been shocked at this, but last year I recognised the benefit of having laminates - so there! There seemed to be less people at the convention centre this year and there seemed to be less people in general in Austin this year. I later learnt that this was because they moved the college holiday a week, so all the college kids were anywhere but Austin.

Opal Divine's Freehouse had to be revisited and I wanted to prove to myself that I could once remember leaving it sober! Mission was accomplished whilst seeing my first bit of live music - that of Beaver Nelson. He is very cool - very vocally reminiscent of Richard Butler of Psychedelic Furs/Love Spit Love. Other people have likened him to Tom Petty. The thing about Beaver Nelson is that he looks like death warmed up whether it be 3pm or 10pm.

It was at Opal's that we met up with my travel companion last year Gerry Evans, and also Karen Miller, Trevor 'Whisperer', Malcolm Leeder and Arsenal Andy. All good people - fellow lovers of music. 40 minutes of Beaver was just right - and it was really beginning to heat up.

I finally met fellow agent Val Denn in the bar of The Four Seasons Hotel - and managed to catch up with Tom Russell and Fred Eaglesmith who I work with, as well as meet Jimmy LaFave again and to meet the extremely talented Eliza Gilkyson. All very name droppy - but a very rock'n'roll scenario to have Fred, Tom, Jimmy and Eliza round the same table. Only in Austin will this happen. Eliza's new album 'Lost and Found' is excellent.

My next adventure was hooking up with Alex de Cartier - my host at NXNE last year and manager of Oh Susanna, Jim Bryson and Richard Buckner. We stayed out of town last year but due to his new job at Peer Publishing I was able to blagg a hotel bed in his room. Farmer had the benefit of the floor. This time we were at the Omni - on 8th Street - posh gaff with a wonderful hot tub and swimming pool on the roof (something we made the most of to the amusement of fellow guests as we donned white robes in the lifts!). The Omni was just up the road from Stubb's Bar-B-Q and that's where Alex and I decided to finish the first evening - to see the amazing Junior Brown. This is real country and I was really excited to see Junior after all these years. Highlights for me were 'Cagey Bea' and a cover of 'Foxy Lady'. It was here I caught up with Bob Egan, fellow agent Chris Topping, Jennifer Whiteley and the gorgeous Amy. Nothing quite like standing outside in Stubb's in the warmth of an evening - listening to Junior's whacky peddle steel. It always makes me want to eat curry.

On Thursday we returned to the Magnolia Café for a sharp burst of salsa and refried beans in our breakfast tacos. Some things never go away - that sickly feeling of spicy mexican food in your gut so early on in the day. Hmmmmm. I never learn!

As with Val Denn, I finally met with Bloodshot owner Nan Warshaw and her husband Tex (a native German) and their 3 month old son Finn. Bloodshot to me are a very credible and cool label and last year they released Alejandro Escovedo's 'A Man Under The Influence' - so I had lots to be grateful for. This year so far they have released The Bottle Rockets covering Doug Sahm songs and The Yayhoos. I love these albums and it was good to finally pay my respects to Nan.

A return to Stubb's - this time for a chopped beef burger - en route to the annual New West Records (formerly known as Doolittle Records) party at Club De Ville. Every year they have bands playing - most if not all are signed to the label. Everyone and everyone was at the party including Time Out journalist and author Ross Fortune and the very lovely singer songwriter Eileen Rose (we flew over with Ross and Eileen), Dutch promo guy Robbie Klandermann and Borderline Barry Everitt.

Stephen Bruton delighted us all with songs from his new album 'Spirit World'. Vic Chesnutt is New West's newest signing and he amused us with a very short set. Chuck Prophet was the main act I wanted to see - and therefore was very happy to hear his truly cool grooves. Barry was too and appeared to be dancing like a crazed buzzard on hot coals - shaking his hips to the deeply cool grooves.

The beautiful Amy and Jennifer invited me to see them at the Broken Spoke tonight. Their allure was so great, how could I not oblige? Besides, it was another opportunity to show the Farmer some of the best places in Austin. As always at there are just so many good musicians and bands playing at the same time and even if you tried your hardest, you wouldn't get to see everything. That would be impossible. Dave McGeachan from King Tut's in Glasgow, however, later boasted that during the course of this evening he had seen 30 bands. This night I was content with the two I saw as I hit my exhaustion wall.

Jennifer was really good. Good songs and a good country voice. She is from bluegrass stock - and you could tell this from her songs and her singing. Amy provided lovely BV's and Bob Egan stepped in on pedal steel. It wasn't until afterwards I learnt it was the first time they played together with drums and double bass. You couldn't tell as they were very confident and Jennifer is someone to certainly out for down the line. We met some geezer from No Depression who proceeded to buy us beers. Cheers Tom.

Amy

Richard Buckner was our next stop in the freemason owned Scottish Rite Temple up near the University. Richard was truly off the wall - playing electric guitar accompanied by his wife Penny on drums. The sound in the venue was awful and by all accounts (including Rick) this wasn't the best gig he had done. I am working with him in the UK - so my second Richard Buckner gig at The Borderline on the 17th April should make amends! I collapsed in a heap after the show.

FRIDAY

I was still feeling shaky and very tired in the morning. We did eat well on this trip - although Avenue Café on Congress is a mistake in the morning when it's so hot and when you're so tired and hungover. More salsa and refried beans… No thank you.

Today was party day - starting off with the British Contingent at the Conference Center (organised by AIM, BPI and Trade Partners UK). It was very good to hang out with the Brits. Ra Ra! It sometimes felt as if I did nothing else for the whole trip! Tom Bridgewater, Frank MacDonald, Colin Jennings, Alan McBlane, Rob Challice, Pete Jenner to name a few.

Then it was a hop, skip and jump back to my favourite part of Austin - South Congress - for the annual Bloodshot party at Yard Dog. There was no marquee out the back this year and because Nan had told me that they lost 3 feet in the back yard she felt as if it was going to be too much of a tight squeeze. She was right and it was unpleasantly full. They really should think about moving it to a bigger venue next year. I didn't stay for long. I missed The Yayhoos regrettably but did catch some of The Meat Purveyors before seeking refuge in what most people - including me - believe is the best venue in Austin. The Continental Club. Bug Music decided to throw a party there this year and it was like the New West party - well subscribed and attended by good people. Plenty of free Shiner was drunk and I met up with Chip Taylor, John Lomax III and his son John Lomax, Deanna Varagona, Tom and Lou Ann, and Sara Qazi - my mad friend from LA who I see about 10 minutes a year. It's worth coming to America purely to see Sara 'working the room' in her usual way. Apparently after I left they put some live music on and the place emptied! The Bug Music party was a good place to talk, drink free beer and get out of the sweltering sun filled back yard of Yard Dog. Thank you to Mark and Jonathon from Bug for inviting me.

We just narrowly missed seeing Patty Griffin at Jovita's. According to Dingwalls promoter Dave Messer, it was one of the best gigs he'd ever seen. I could well believe it after seeing her solo opening for Emmylou Harris in the UK back in 2000. Patty was with her band as well…. Ho hum. You can't do and see everything, but I did get to hang out with my English buddy - singer songwriter Amanda Thorpe - who now lives in New York. She has just completed her debut album which is mighty good. Come back to Blighty soon!

Cozillo's Pizza Restaurant on Congress proved to provide a welcome break from salsa and refried beans - and put us in good stead for this year's 'buzz band' Yeah Yeah Yeahs (New York band) who were playing in the large tin shed that is La Zona Rosa. Buzz being the operative word as I found myself surrounded by 5 UK booking agents. It was good - but not that good!

'Barbican' Bryn, 'Arches' Tamsin, Farmer, Dave Messer and I sat through a featureless Bare JR set before returning to The Continental Club to see the gorgeous Tift Merritt. Very country, very cute - like Kasey Chambers I guess, although I didn't think the songs were as strong as Kasey's. Thanks for the ever-dependable Richard Wootton for making it all possible. It was his first visit to Austin - a surprise when I heard that.

Next up was Dan Bern at Gingerman. Dan was class and the audience were truly taken away with him and his band. Dan is a supreme songwriter and a very unassuming singer. It was very late in the evening and I was seriously flagging, but he was very good. I look forward to his shows in Europe and working with him alongside Messenger Records' Brandon Kessler and Martin and Rob from Cooking Vinyl - all of whom were out in force tonight.

A mandatory game of pool at Buffalo Billiards followed with Cooking Vinyl Rob Collins, Matias from Spain, Farmer and 'Barbican' Bryn. A very civilised way to round off a long day of music, free beer and general hellraising.

SATURDAY

Saturday was far more laid back. Norah Jones was the other 'buzz' name this year and unlike Yeah Yeah Yeah's, you could see why. Very attractive 22 year old also from New York. Norah on keyboards with accompanying guitar and double bass. Exquisite stuff. Norah was the best thing I had seen to date on this trip and it wasn't surprising that Waterloo Records was rammed to the rafters with people. Word gets around quickly that she was playing here and that her CD 'Come Away With Me' was on sale for a mere $8.99. It put me in a very relaxed mood. It had been pretty chaotic up to now - what with the meetings, the missed meetings, the walking between the parties - I was totally overjoyed to be overwhelmed by the subtle charms and delights of Norah Jones. She is going to be huge. Think jazz and blues - with a generous helping of soul. More please.

Dave Messer's brother Alan was having an exhibition of his Rock'n'Roll photographs in Austin Modern Art Gallery not far from Waterloo Records. Mike Chapman (who has his own gallery not far from Waterloo Station, London), Dave and myself made the walk down. There on display - classic and rare photos of the likes of Keith Richards, John Lennon, Bob Marley, Marc Bolan and George Harrison (RIP). One of my favourites was of Lucinda Williams in a very sultry pose on her sofa with a buffalo skull hanging above her. The food at this event was the best food I ate all trip and was made by Austin dweller Shelley. I'd happily hire her to do all my catering in the UK for anything I needed catering for. Beef in a mango sauce, and then bean cake, and then scrumptious chocolate nibbles with chocolate cream and fresh strawberries. Oh yes. This was the best. I was the most chilled out I have been in ages. I wish I could bottle this moment and this sensation. At least I have the photos.

Shelley The Queen Chef

What followed got better - a hot tub visit overlooking Austin below. Hmmm!

Chuck Prophet delivered another blistering set of live music with his band upstairs at Mercury Entertainment @ Jazz. Barry Everitt was seen dancing like a crazed man on hot coals. We all look forward to his May tour in support of his rather incredible new album 'No Other Love'. He plays The Borderline on the 20th May and I will be able to see the Everittmeister dance once again.

A true slice of punk rock followed up the road on 6th Street at BD Riley's. The Constantines. We had trouble getting in because it was oversubscribed - surprising considering I was with the act's booking agent… We did get in eventually. The stage was too small for these punks - so they decided to turn round and play through the open window bordering the street to the long queue of hungry fans waiting to come in. It was great fun to watch and as much fun to hear - but not as much fun as The Yayhoos down at Mother Egan's.

Whilst Norah Jones was the most chilled out show, The Yayhoos were the best rock show as far as I was concerned. Dan Bairn (Georgia Satellites) and Eric Ambel and others make up The Yayhoos. These guys rocked (a word I rarely use) and I danced like a crazed person (almost to Everittine amplitudes). Anyone who covers The O'Jay's ('Love Train'), ABBA ('Dancing Queen') or The B-52's ('Roam') in their set so convincingly - gets my vote! Their own songs were bloody good too 'Monkey With A Gun', 'What Are We Waiting For', plus a version of 'Battleship Chains', Yes. I love The Yayhoos. Thanks to Chris Topping for being a good sharing mate. It was all too much for me and I collapsed in a heap ready for St Patrick's Day.

SUNDAY

A Veggie Burger at Waterloo Ice (next door to Waterloo Records) cured all our pains and soon we were spending more money on CDs. This time at Cheapo Discs on Lamarr. My first time here. I ended up buying a second hand Bangles album that did nothing but jump in my CD player on my way back to England. I should've known better…

Two pints of Guinness at Mother Egan's to celebrate Paddy's Day was enough for me. The Irish music they had put on wasn't particularly good and there was nowhere to sit. There was always the hot tub back at The Omni and that's where we returned - plotting our last evening in Austin.

It was loose - but started with dinner at Stubb's with 'Fargo' Michel, Alex, Farmer and the stunning Patricia. Richard and Penny Buckner eventually met up with us for a few beers at Buffalo Billiards (no pool this time unfortunately).

I had to see Tom Ovans and Lou Ann Bardash again to say fond goodbyes to them. We ended up at Güera's and drank too much. Now there's a surprise.

Tom Ovans, Lou Ann Bardash, Richard Buckner, Harry Farmer, Alex de Cartier, Penny Buckner and me on my knees

Was this a good trip? Yes - always good seeing old friends like Austin dwellers Tom, Lou Ann, Bonnie, Michael from New West and making new ones. It was fun hanging out with fellow Brits including the newly weds Lee and Alison Conlon - who chose Austin as their honeymoon location with friends from Newcastle after their wedding in Las Vegas. They know how to do it in style.

Alison and Lee Conlon

It was very odd to fly 5,000 miles to meet a Scottish promoter and to buy two old Kiki Dee albums.

The trip was rounded off at New West Records offices in South Austin. Jay Woods summed up SXSW for me as a great place to meet people and make friends - on which you can base firm professional (and personal) relationships. He said the funniest thing: that he had never seen so many people throw up in a venue before as with Slobberbone on Saturday night at 1am. Slobberbone was always dangerous to your health. I was glad to be well gone in bed by 1am on Saturday.

Next year - I hope to hang out with Gus Dudgeon. We never seem to get it together! It's an annual pilgrimage we are both addicted to and Austin is a place where I re-charge my musical batteries. I was glad to be Harry Farmer's chaperone. I hope that this will be his first of many visits to the Live Music Capitol of the World.

Best music seen: The Yayhoos, Norah Jones, Chuck Prophet, Dan Bern, Junior Brown and Jennifer Whiteley.

Best moments: in the hot tub.

Best food: Shelley's food at Alan Messer's exhibition

Best drink: Frozen margarita's at Polvos.

Thank you to Austin, Alex for the hotel room, Harry for the company and to everyone else mentioned in this report.

Farmer post-Austin