It was great to return for the second time to Austin year.

The first time you break your teeth in, learn the ropes. You work out the city layout; you find the good bars and live music venues. Then - after a little research - you find out where the good afternoon parties are. The free beer, food and music. It then all rolls into one and before you know it - you've seen live music solidly for about 12 hours at a time. Your feet are tired from all the walking from venue to venue (because the taxis never show up when you want them to). It sounds fun - and it is. Problem is you wear yourself out after about 3 days.

This year was different. I wasn't there to hold a video camera for Virtue Broadcasting. I was there completely as a free individual: do what I choose to do and in my own time. I was determined to have a great time and that's precisely what I did. The urgency to see 20 bands in one night was much less this year. I was more up for the special occasions - seeing friends I met last year and meeting new people who will become friends and SXSW Partners in Crime in years to come. The reality is that if you miss a band one night, chances are that you'd see them again at some stage in the next 4 days (or if you're lucky - back home in London; but even then it never feels the same as it does seeing them in Texas).

I started the trip as I started last year; a few Shiner Boks at the Continental Club the moment I arrived in Austin. I have arrived! My partners in crime this year were Alex de Cartier (AKA Jose), Gerry Evans (AKA Swifty), Karen Miller (AKA Scottish Karen - who happens to be the World Number 1 Blue Rodeo fan) and Mike Chapman (AKA MC). We chose The Saxon Pub on South Lamar on the Wednesday night to kick SXSW off. Tom Ovans was opening for Ian McLagan, with Larry Chaney on guitars and Lou Ann Bardash on BVs on a couple of tunes. Tom has a great new album out now called "Still in This World" and Lou Ann has her paintings hung up in the Magnolia Café. They are wonderful people and great guides to Austin. They introduced me to the funkier side of Austin last year. By this stage we had hooked up with Chas Hay (host of Canada's "Roots'n'Roll" TV program). He somehow had heard that Billy Joe Shaver was doing an unannounced show at The Carousel Lounge out of town. This was to be his first gig following the premature death of his son Eddy. No one really knew where the venue was or whether the gig was a hoax. We thought - "What the Hell" and decided to go on a journey. Once there we were greeted by a stage dressed with a pink elephant! Billy Joe's long time guitarist was seen in the meagre audience - so we guessed that this was definitely going to happen. It was quite a scoop. I later learnt that Billy Joe's record company didn't even know anything about it. Billy Joe entered the venue and then sang his way through 60 minutes of brand new songs with his new band and at one point the guitar solo put me in a serious Pink Floyd state of mind. It was surreal and quite a treat, and quite undoubtedly one of my many highlights of the trip. Chas, Alex, myself and Bucketful of Brains' Nick West then returned to The Saxon to see the now Austin-based Ian McLagan. The rest of the night is a bit of a blur. At least I was happy and extremely elated to be back in Austin, Texas - The Live Music Capital of the World.

Austin has really changed as a city in the 12 months since the last SXSW. It is obvious when you look at Congress from standing outside The Continental Club that the skyline is beginning to look overcrowded with more tower blocks. The computer firms are buying large plots in the centre and building huge offices. The price of real estate has risen; rents have risen - slowly forcing the boutique industries, funky cafes and wine bars, and funky musicians and artists out to the suburbs.

The moment I had been looking forward to most since buying my air ticket was the Miles Of Music/Catamount BBQ at Juan In A Million out in East Austin. It was there that most of the British contingent seemed to convene - joined now by Ruth Morris, Tom Bridgewater and James Windsor. Free beer served by a Woody Allen soundalike - a third of Woody's age and three times as hyperactive. The only saving grace was that he was serving free beer constantly for 3 hours. Nice guy! The quality live music was in abundance; from Toronto's Oh Susanna (who was to feature quite heavily today), Gingersol, Jim Roll, Tim Carroll and one of my favourite finds of the week The Imperial Golden Crown Harmonizers. Time stood still as their bluesy, funky, almost P-Funk-esque melodies soaked with Shaun Murphy (Little Feat)- esque vocals filled the front yard of this wonderful joint. They are an Austin "supergroup" made up of session musicians - including the ubiquitous Gurf Morlix. It was sunny and everybody was truly happy.

Oh Susanna

Before I knew it - it was time to return to what last year was the Doolittle party at Club de Ville. Doolittle ceased trading last summer and effectively became New West Records. The party was in the same place and Slobberbone were to take the stage by force. Normally I would've stayed - but an event was going to take place in Maggie Mae's that I knew I could not miss. A new band from the Appalachian Mountains of Tennessee comprised of brothers. They are a bluegrass combo that play solely ACDC covers. Their name: Hayseed Dixie. It was hilarious. To see the smile on The Borderline's Barry Everitt as Hayseed Dixie broke into the opening bars of "Highway to Hell".... it made the trip so worthwhile. It was all getting far too much as the band rolled through renditions of "Back In Black", "Guns For Hire"...... Sorry Slobberbone but Hayseed Dixie excelled tonight.

Saengerrunde (pronounced Sang-ga-run-de) Hall, however, was our chosen destination for the evening to see a full set of Oh Susanna. The thing I love about Austin is how frequently you bump into people you know. Who do we bump into on the way to see Oh Susanna? My old mate Neal Casal and from the Virtue Broadcasting team last year Richard Whymark. It was a wonderful moment that set me up for the rest of the evening. Suzie Ungerleider (Oh Susanna) sang blissfully through a 45 minute set in an ornate German styled theatre. Only in Austin! The only sad thing was the bleeding of heavy rock from the beer garden next door. Fortunately the effect Suzie's singing and music has on me made me forget about most things. It made me forget Hayseed Dixie, the Woody Allen soundalike and the loud "backing tape" (as she referred the noise next door as). It was after her set that I met the Australian band The Waifs - and from here we found ourselves seeing a band called Elbow (not the British version unfortunately) in a bar called Empanada Parlour. They weren't very good and before too long I returned to La Zona Rosa to finally see a band that I have missed on several occasions in London; The North Mississippi Allstars. It was all getting too much for me and I called it quits at 2.

Friday was warm. It was sunny too. The weather last year was foul. This year - so far so good! Austin is full of SXSW laminates (conference delegates) and I thought I'd spend a little time smoozing them. A beer with Charlie Hunter at the Ironworks at midday was certainly a cool idea. Getting to hang out with one of my favourite Scottish bands The Cosmic Rough Riders was also a very cool idea. They seemed to be everywhere this year; something I was very glad to see. Sue and Mike Donahoe left Austin Texas after SXSW last year to relocate their Texas-only music shop (Local Flavor) out a family home in Corpus Christi. This year they returned with new CDs to their old shop. They haven't changed in the slightest. They are wonderful people and real die-hard supporters of Texas music - whether it is Country, Rock, Punk, and Blues.... It was the allure of Local Flavor and the prospect of having a cold beer with Austin-Londoner Richard Whymark that finally tore me away from the laminates.

Next stop: Opal Divine's Freehouse via Waterloo Records. Laura Cantrell and her New York band played live in the record shop as I wandered around rather prudently buying only 8 CDs. Laura is a fine and unique singer and always a delight seeing her live. The backdrop of that Waterloo sign (modelled on the London Underground tube station sign) and the blue skies of Austin made it so much more special. Opal Divine's Freehouse had only just opened up the day before SXSW last year and I was glad to see that it stayed open and the skies didn't open like they did last year. I finally got to see Austin resident Beaver Nelson play live and to meet up with the beautiful Miss Bonnie Spanogle once again. So much has happened since last year - but it's always re-assuring to know that people you met last year are still doing what they love doing best. Going out to see live music and enjoying themselves. I stayed in Opal Divine's Freehouse as long as I could - but the day was taking it's toll on my feet and I decided to see - again finally - Ron Sexsmith. He's an odd looking guy, but his voice and songs are stunning. The place was rammed and you can only take so much of this standing up before you want to shake your booties elsewhere. The only place that did it for me was back to Opal Divine's Freehouse and it was there that I saw another one of my favourite bands from SXSW this year - Blue Mountain. They simply rocked. A three-piece with everything you could ask for. They were a true hard act to follow - I can tell you. Under normal circumstances the singer I saw next would do it nicely - but on this occasion I found her rather flat. Lucinda Williams chose The Austin Music Hall to preview about 7 or 8 tracks from her forthcoming album "Essence". It was great fun seeing Neal Casal in her band (one of 4 rhythm guitarists…). With the exception of maybe two or three songs - I found this rather disappointing. The beauty of Lucinda's music though is that it grows on you. I think these songs will grow on me and we get to see her in the UK next, the songs she performed tonight would be classics in my ears. The songs "Essence", "Blue" and "Out of Time" are ones worth checking out. The Gravy Train of SXSW Cohorts rounded the evening at Lucy's on 6th Street (THE street) where we couldn't actually get in to see Podunk. We did, however, get a chance to enjoy the late night atmosphere of 6th Street. A first for me.

Saturday was St Patricks' Day. A pint of Guinness in The Continental with Jumpin' Hot Club (Newcastle) promoter Graham Anderson was called for.

Bike, Car and Guinness man on the run!

As with the madness of seeing Hayseed Dixie on Thursday night, I couldn't miss out on the opportunity of seeing the Luther Wrights and Wrongs: A Canadian bluegrass band who only plays tracks off Pink Floyd's "The Wall". This left me cold - as Pink Floyd are by far my all time favourite band; I couldn't see the point of this - whereas I could with Hayseed Dixie masquerading as an ACDC covers band. I got another chance to see the wonderful Blue Mountain before shaking the dust off my cowboy boots and making the lengthy trip of 200 yards to The Yard Dog. The Yard Dog seems to be a magnet for British people - and it was there I finally bumped into Mad Country Joe, The Rock'n'Roll Barber Tel, Mike, Dave and Rick once again.

With Mad Country Joe and Rock'n'Roll Barber Tel

Laura Cantrell (as with Cosmic Rough Riders, Bob Schneider, Jimmy LaFave and Gurf Morlix) seemed to be everywhere this year.

Laura ambled through and early afternoon set before Australian Kasey Chambers took to the stage and blew everyone away. Lucinda Williams is quoted as saying, "Kasey Chambers Is My Favourite New Artist". You can see why. She is short and it was hard to see her in the crammed back yard marquee area. This time though was good time spent hanging out with music mogul and Kasey's manager John Lomax III, Miss Bonnie, Mary Lee Kortes (from Mary Lee's Corvette), Laura Cantrell and Jeremy Tepper and my mad SXSW cohorts.

With John Lomax 111

In the haze of the past few days - Mike Chapman (MC) and myself had been invited to KUT (a radio station based in the University of Texas) to appear on the Larry Monroe Show. Tom Ovans and Lou Ann Bardash introduced me to this legendary DJ last year and I was very honoured to be invited back. The only problem was this we were due there at 2AM and by the time we left Yard Dog - it was close on 6pm. A brief visit to the Broken Spoke was in order. I could've stayed there all night as Sonny Landreth and Rodney Crowell were on the bill, but I could never forgive myself for not turning up to KUT on time; which is why I decided to base my evening musical activities up near the University. Again - a first. Chuck Prophet was in fantastic form with a new bass player and drummer, playing in a quaint room called The Cactus Café. This is where Townes Van Zandt chose to play - and you can understand why. Totally intimate - yet a fabulous live rocky sound. Lucky for me in the space of three hours I had seen some of the best live music I have seen in any one night for a very long time. From Chuck Prophet to Radney Foster, from Bruce Robison and Kelly Willis (not Bruce Willis.....) to the highlight of the night (and quite possibly the whole week) Gillian Welch and David Rawlings.

With "Scottish Karen", "Swifty" with Gillian Welch and David Rawlings.

They were wonderful live. I do prefer to see them in cosy intimate seated theatres. They set up me up really good for a late night on KUT with Larry Monroe. He - quite frankly - is the most laid back DJ I have ever met and heard on air. What a delight (and a complete surprise) to meet up with Chip Taylor and John Platania - who were the guests on immediately before us. MC and I promoted SpydaRadio. It was a wonderful chance to take stock of what we had seen so far, talk about our love for music and our love for Austin as well as see a complete master at work. You rock Larry. Thank you for allowing us to take over your radio show for 2 hours! We'll do it again next year!

With Larry Monroe.

This was the prelude to my best day on the trip - and the wettest. On Sunday it did nothing but rain all day. I didn't care in the slightest. This day is one to remember for the rest of my life. Not yet tired of live music, Alex (Jose), Mike and myself decided to see Imperial Golden Crown Harmonisers once again - but this time at their Sunday lunchtime residency at Empanada Parlour, It was here the Gravy Train of destruction started. Jumping on board this joyous journey: "Swifty", "Scottish Karen", "Party Girl" Carolyn Mark, Chas Hay, Oh Susanna's US and Canadian agent Chris Topping, "Borderline" Barry, "Bucketful" Nick West and no doubt several others that escape my memory!

A trip to Austin without seeing Rosie Flores isn't a trip to Austin in my book - and it was taking refuge from the rain that we saw Rosie play in impromptu set with her band in the clothes shop Under The Sun. You rock Rosie. It was there that I met Donald Lindley's widow Kathy and son Jesse. A total delight. It was still raining and Querro's bar just up the road seemed the next refuge for the party train. Several margaritas later - we returned to The Saxon Pub for the prestigious South Austin Music awards - hosted by the incredible Resentments (Jon Dee Graham and Stephen Bruton amongst others) to the finale of the evening at The Hole in The Wall. Not one to name drop - but getting served next to actor Dennis Quaid was pretty funny. Seeing Eldorado (remember that?) actor Jessie Birdsall in town today was also pretty weird..... "The Tribute To The Last Waltz" marked the end of an incredible day of live music - laughter and fun. Twelve hours later - we were all still all together although not fully intact. Chas jumped off the train at this stage! Hasta lluego.

Was it work? Hell no. It was a massive party from the moment I landed in Austin on Tuesday afternoon, until 3 Am on Monday morning where I shared a car journey with "Swifty", "Scottish Karen", "Jose", "Party Girl" Carolyn, and "MC" Mike.

Overall highlights for me this year was the company and camaraderie. Alex "Jose" and Gerry "Swifty" were great hotel roommates. Many thanks for driving us around Gerry. Thank you Tom and Lou Ann for sharing your new home of Austin with us again. I love Austin. My heart lives in Austin and I can't wait to return next year.

With "Jose"

Musically The Imperial Golden Crown Harmonisers, Oh Susanna, Blue Mountain, Hayseed Dixie, Billy Joe Shaver, Chuck Prophet, Gillian Welch and Dave Rawlings and The Resentments were the overall musical highlights to me.

There were things we missed, but there's always next year….

As time rolls on the memories of Austin get better. At the time you are running ragged around town trying to cram as much in as possible. As often is the case it's the things you take for granted such as the street life, classy cars and the wonderfully friendly native Americans that truly stand out.

When describing what Austin is like - and more specifically what SXSW is like - I simply say "It's like seeing your record and CD collection coming alive to play live infront of your. It's like all your musical highlights of one year being crammed into one week".

XXX